The Skincare Savant: My Morning Skincare Routine, Explained.
Answering your questions about my daily skincare ritual (and yours).
Welcome to the latest installment of The Skincare Savant, a love letter to my most favorite ritual and all of the captivating, indulgent and heavenly skincare products and other delights that care for your skin. If you follow me on Instagram (and you should), you’ve undoubtedly seen my lengthy morning skincare routines on my Stories. And they continue to fascinate and somewhat frustrate more people than I can believe. Although it’s only been a few months since I outlined my morning skincare routine, my DMs have been flooded with various versions of the same questions so I figured it was time for an update. Today’s post is dedicated to answering your questions and less about making my case for why each product deserves a lifetime achievement award. It’s a deep dive that’s filled to the brim (and then some) with information, bad jokes and grammatical errors. I hope you enjoy it (you asked for it!). The Skincare Savant is an ode to the practice of caring for your skin, from your skincare routine and beyond. You can find every installment of The Skincare Savant here. Let’s dive in.
Programming Note: This post includes more goodness than an email can handle and will get cut off. Don’t miss a thing, read it here! Don’t forget to click the 🤍 button before you go!
The following contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission for purchases made through those links. Thank you for your support.
Important Update:
I have a discount code with Lunya (save w/ myskinterest)! And while I hope you’re excited about it, this news is personally a milestone for me as a creature of comfort and someone who lives in my pajamas. I’ve raved about their eye mask at least five-hundred times and I credit it with every hour of sleep I get. I’m currently wearing this set and I promise, it’s heavenly. — save w/ myskinterest
Reminder:
I am not a dermatologist, doctor, licensed esthetician or credentialed expert of any kind. The opinions shared are my own. They not intended to and should not be perceived as medical advice. When in doubt, consult a physician you trust.
Everyone’s skin is different. I can only speak to my personal experience, which is purely anecdotal, and what works for me may not work for you and that’s okay.
Most of this is wildly unnecessary. All you need is a cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen with SPF 50+ protection. And somedays, that’s pretty much all I do. Do not interpret this as a sign to go buy everything and start doing your own seventy-two step skincare routine.
It’s Complicated, It Depends — It’s Just Skincare
In my professional life, I’m often tasked with identifying patterns. So it only makes sense that post came together through a series of emerging patterns, too. As I mentioned above, considerable number of the DMs I receive everyday (and please, keep them coming) are related to my morning skincare routine — but let’s be honest, I’m not that interesting. In reality, these messages are directly or indirectly about your routine and your questions about all things skincare. And as someone who is trained to anticipate and identify patterns, I couldn’t help but notice some that appear across these communications. For one, you are my people. But also, these patterns seem to suggest that a lot of people have a tendency to overthink their approach to skincare. And who could blame you? I could write a dissertation about the Skincare Cinematic Universe and all the ways in which it is working against even the most savvy beauty consumer. There’s a deluge of noise that’s often masked as information and rather than educate consumers, it overcomplicates even the basics for how to care for our skin. At some point, all of the noise surrounding the skincare industry can make it feel somewhat impossible to make an informed decision without going back to school to get a degree in cosmetic chemistry.
And I think that’s a major problem. To be clear, one should always consult a trusted physician with any medical issues and concerns. I am not a dermatologist, doctor, licensed esthetician or credentialed expert of any kind, and the last thing I want is for what I say to be perceived as medical advice — it’s not. However, it’s important for me to state and you to recognize that as a completely separate area from the focus of this post. What I’m specifically speaking to are the basics, the everyday skincare routines and the practice of caring for your skin. None of those things should feel like a gambit when we have so much information available to us. But for so many people, it does. And the relentless fear mongering, confusing terminology and desire for more clicks is partly to blame.
At the end of the day, skincare is just skincare. It’s not as complicated as many would have you believe. Unless prescribed by a doctor, product labels and terminology like “medical grade” are meaningless and misleading — there’s nothing medical about the products you get at Sephora. Skincare is regulated and generally safe, that is, unless you buy it from Amazon. Don’t judge a product by its ingredient list because it won’t offer much insight into the performance, efficacy or user experience (unless one has a known allergy to an ingredient). Despite popular opinion, there are no “rules” but there is some good advice to keep in mind if you’re just starting to develop a routine. People with different skin types or states can and do use the same products. Information is a galvanizing tool and it’s always a good idea to learn more various ingredients, regulations and other topics of interest surrounding the Skincare Cinematic Universe. Still, the most enthusiastic skincare consumer does not have all the answers and that’s perfectly normal. In the large majority of cases, the answers to most general skincare questions will and should vary because truthfully, it’s complicated and it depends.
Frequently Asked Questions
But first, your questions. Please don’t take this as a sign to stop DMing me (I live for our chats); rather, I’m hoping this helps answer any questions I may have missed. If you haven’t already read my first post detailing my morning skincare routine I highly recommend giving it a go after this. Again, I can only speak to my personal experience, which is purely anecdotal. Have a different question? Ask away in the comments!
Do you actually put all of those products on your face every single morning?
For all intents and purposes, yes but it depends. The products you see on my Instagram story are the ones that went on my face as part of my morning skincare routine that day. When it’s not, it’s purely an accident and usually means that a serum I used ran away before I could take the photo of what I used that morning. And I can also get a little fast and loose with my definition of “morning.” Due to a series of chaotic events, somedays I don’t remember to have a sip of water until around 1:36pm — and so my morning routine is sometimes an early afternoon routine. And while I haven’t been as consistent as I normally am, there are plenty of days when I just wash my face and put on a serum and sunscreen. I’ll try to be better about posting every day so keep an eye out!
How long does your morning skincare routine take you from start to finish?
Not long but it depends. I’m not in the habit of timing myself but I think it’s like anything you do daily — at some point you develop muscle memory which helps to speed things up. I don’t wait a specific amount of time between each step (though there are some exceptions) and I try not to let my face completely dry before moving on to the next product. But I’m also easily distracted so really anything goes. Something I like to do is lay out the products I plan to use before I begin my routine — and I really recommend trying it yourself. This makes it less likely that I’ll miss a step, alleviates decision fatigue and because I’m not making it up as I go (at least not completely), I’m able to be more intentional with what I want to use that day.
How do you layer so many products without experiencing any pilling?
Look, I don’t mean to brag but the Atacama has nothing on my skin. Jokes aside, before this post I hadn’t thought about pilling in what feels like ages — and that’s partly because my skincare routine is very intentional and meticulously curated. For example, keen observers will recognize that I use basically the same products every day with a few changes here and there (and I always apply them in the same order, more or less). Therefore, I know these products play together and are unlikely to pill. I’ve interacted with enough skincare products over the years to have a pretty good idea when something could lead to pilling, and I’ll test those products separately before incorporating them into my routine. I also try to apply my products from thinnest to thickest and more emollient delights. However, I have noticed that if I let my face completely dry down between every single step, pilling is more likely to occur. It was a theory I tested for this post but it could just be me and my skin so don’t read too much into it. At the end of the day, I really just stick to what I love and try not to overthink it. Plus, and I can’t stress this enough, my skin is really dry.
Have you noticed your skin improve since you started doing longer routines?
For all intents and purposes, it’s complicated. The short answer is yes but that comes with about five-hundred caveats and the largest grain of salt that The Guinness World Records has ever seen. Because first and foremost, my definition of what it means for my skin to “improve” over time is vastly different from yours. And yours is different from the other two people still reading this, too. Perfect skin does not exist. But we can strive to for healthy skin and that’s what I do, because my skin belongs to me. Another thing to keep in mind is that consistency, routine and structure are three things I try to avoid at all costs. I’ve always been on my own timezone. But with skincare, consistency is key. And in my experience, becoming (somewhat obsessively) diligent with my routine has really helped my skin become healthier, stronger and happier. That absolutely does not mean that you need to have an unnecessarily long skincare routine or use the products I use. But the thrill of each product helps keep me engaged and consistent. Of course, there’s SO much more to it but I guess my point is that everyone’s skin is different. Your skin belongs to you and my skin belongs to me. At the end of the day, skincare is just really awesome goop. I try not to overthink it — that’s when things stop being fun for me.
Can you start including the order in which you apply each product in your stories?
No 🤍. However, those details are outlined below for you to refer back to and if you’re referring back to my posts, you might as well become a paid subscriber!
My Morning Routine: Step-by-Step, Drop-by-Drop
The overwhelming majority of questions I receive about my morning skincare routine are some variation of the following two questions:
Can you provide explicit and detailed instructions for the order in which you apply (or layer) each product?
How much of each product do you apply each day and can you use a kitchen scale or measuring spoons to be as accurate as possible?
And so, as I did my morning routine yester— several mornings ago, I took meticulously detailed notes and broke out some measuring spoons. It was absolutely ridiculous and I wish I had taken photos of me actually doing this — they honestly would have made for a better post. As you continue reading, please note that the products below are photographed and listed in the order in which I apply (or layer) them during my morning routine. And like I mentioned at the top, this post is focused on answering your questions. Given that this post is already beginning to rival the length of “War and Peace,” I did not write a lengthy love letter to each product featured here. Though, there’s always next time if you really want me to.
Remember: Most of this is wildly unnecessary and I’m not an expert by any means. There is no secret sauce or super scientific rationale behind my routine — I just use the products that work for me and have fun with it. I can only speak to my personal experience, which is purely anecdotal.
STEP ONE
Between sweat, drool, cat hair, bacteria and all the rest — by the time I wake up in the morning, I absolutely have to wash my face. I have a lot of cleansers open at once and use whatever product looks particularly appealing on any given morning. Some cleansers in my rotation have AHAs to chemically exfoliate or other ingredients to target various skin concerns — but given that the product is on my skin for all of thirty-seven seconds, I don’t pay much attention. I’m mostly obsessed with how a cleanser makes my skin feel and if I enjoy interacting with it. Right now, I’m in love with this cleanser. I use a glob. I know that’s not very scientific but it doesn’t really matter in this case. Also in heavy rotation is this one (save w/ myskinterest), this one and this one (save w/ myskinterest). After I cleanse, I use a clean towel to dry my face. While I don’t really believe in the disposable towels that some people swear by, I’m a fierce advocate for using a clean towel every single time I wash my face. I bought several dozen face towels online for next to nothing and they get the job done.
STEP TWO
My first real step or layer in my morning skincare routine tends to be whatever product is the thinnest and water-based — and usually, that’s a chemical exfoliant. I know it’s not recommended to exfoliate daily. Like I said, I operate on my own timezone and often, on my own planet. I’m currently switching between two serums that have completely different ingredients but seem to be incredibly effective — particularly when used in tandem like I am currently. I use roughly 1/3 of a dropper of this one or two pumps of this one (which I spoke about here). They’re both fantastic.
STEP THREE
I’m an eye cream/serum queen and I like to use several eye products throughout my routine, beginning with a serum. Based on my understanding, eye serums are more effective at addressing common concerns because a serum can penetrate the skin more easily than a cream — but I only kind of know what I’m talking about. I use my favorite eye serum morning and night, and while it’s pricy — it’s worth it for me (save w/ myskinterest). I use one pump in total and I apply it all over my eye area (including my eye lids) with my fingers. It doesn’t matter if you use your ring finger or your index finger or your pinky finger. — save w/ myskinterest
STEP FOUR
A vitamin c serum is usually next on the docket, and I’ve become a fervent fan of this one (which I spoke about here). It’s fabulous and weird and very effective, at least in my experience. The brand recommends applying four drops to your face and neck but honestly, as painfully specific as I am, I never take the time to make sure I only use four drops. Generally, I apply closer to six or eight drops. However, I always recommend you follow the brand’s advice and not mine.
Looking For: Struggling to find a vitamin c serum that doesn’t ruin your day? I highly recommend trying out the one above or this one, this one or this one. All are great and I would repurchase (and have)!
STEP FIVE
I know I’ve already ranted and raved about this serum enough but when I tell you this is the bedrock of my skincare routine, I mean it (save w/ myskinterest10). It was the first skincare product I ever purchased a subscription for and it’s easily the one I recommend most to people who are looking to upgrade their routine. It’s a long-term play, you won’t see results after one bottle and it is expensive so I really don’t recommend it if you don’t plan to stick with it. I use three pumps morning and night. — save w/ myskinterest10
STEP SIX
I’ve become truly obsessed with this serum over the last year. I truly think it’s like radiance in a bottle and I like to apply a full dropper every morning and night. Please note, I really do not recommend buying the 0.67 oz bottle because for reasons unknown to me, the dropper is absolutely pathetic compared to the achievement that is the dropper in the larger sizes. Despite hating droppers, I really think this one adds to the user experience because it’s delightfully effective and it clicks. Anyways, the serum is amazing. Spring for the larger size.
STEP SEVEN
Don’t mind me on my second eye serum of the morning! I like this brand and eye serum a lot, and it’s a thicker gel serum compared to the first so I use it around this point in my routine — sometimes I apply it later, there are absolutely no rules. I apply roughly one pump in total and again, I apply it all over my eye area including my eye lids.
STEP EIGHT
I absolutely adore this peptide-packed serum and I don’t talk about it nearly as much as I should. It’s GOOD. I typically apply a full dropper (sometimes more). And if you’ve learned about this brand through me or see it more because of my content here and/or on Instagram, please do me a favor and let them know I should be their spokesperson.
Pro Tip: When looking for a hydrating serum, opt for a peptide-packed serum over a straight hyaluronic acid serum. Peptides will work overtime for your skin and chances are the serum will have hyaluronic acid (or niacinamide or whatever your kink) in it already.
STEP NINE
Not only does this serum give my skin a little boost of radiance but it’s also one of my favorite products and my Instagram is basically dedicated to it (save w/ myskinterest). I apply more than necessary because I also put it on my chest but I use roughly 1/2 of a dropper on my face. If you are sensitive to L-ascorbic acid (vitamin c), this would be a great alternative for you. Obviously, I like using them both. — save w/ myskinterest
STEP TEN
While it started as yet another attempt to make my skin glow despite my clinically diagnosed and largely debilitating insomnia, this serum has become one of my very favorite things (save w/ myskinterest). In my experience, it contributes to minimizing the appearance of pigmentation and evening my overall complexion. I use three pumps. Another question I get asked A LOT is if it’s okay to use this with Dieux Skin Deliverance or a vitamin c serum or whatever else. If you’re worried about it, consult a physician you trust. For me, in my personal and not at all medical experience, it’s never been an issue and the more the merrier — I actually think this and vitamin c paired together is the most effective for my skin. But again everyone’s skin is different. — save w/ myskinterest
Note: I realized after I took the photo above that I didn’t put the product above in the correct order (I’m embarrassed). However, I didn’t have it in me to set up the photo again to reflect the accurate order. But please note, the serum above (step ten) is usually like step seven. It really doesn’t matter at all but I felt compelled to tell you.
STEP ELEVEN
I know what you’re thinking: Why is she putting on an essence this late in the game? I think of this product as a gateway between a serum and a moisturizer, and it’s an absolute delight. However, because it’s so gorgeously rich and emollient, I put it on after my fancy serums so it doesn’t get in the way. I like to apply two layers and I actually measured out how much I put on (lol) and it’s roughly 1/2 of a teaspoon. I usually wait thirty seconds to a minute (ish) to let it soak in a bit before moving on.
STEP TWELVE
We’ve finally arrived at the last eye product in my routine — my favorite daytime eye cream. Admittedly, I’m not the target audience for this brand but their eye cream really is so lovely (and my under eyes are picky). Even though I have countless other eye creams to choose from, I always end up repurchasing this one. I use a small-ish glob for each eye (science).
STEP THIRTEEN
Dedicated readers know that I’ve taken every opportunity to share my obsession with this product, so I’ll spare you the details here but this serum cream moisturizer was my favorite discovery of 2023 (save w/ myskinterest). It’s truly unlike any other moisturizer I’ve used and its unique serumy creamy quality makes it a fan favorite in the warmer months, though it has a spot in my routine all year round. As someone with skin akin to an arid climate, I layer it with a thicker moisturizer on top. I apply roughly 1/3 of a teaspoon every morning and night (and no, it never pills). — save w/ myskinterest
STEP FOURTEEN
If this is your first time to myMusings, please note that this is my favorite moisturizer and my desert island product (save w/ myskinterest10). Other candidates need not apply. I use roughly 1/4 of a teaspoon to top off my routine. Seriously, this moisturizer is one of the great loves of my life. And trust me, I don’t have it in me to fake it and I don’t have the time to lie to you about this or any of the products I talk about so when I say I love it, I love it. — save w/ myskinterest10
Important! After I finish with all that, I wait ten minutes before I apply my sunscreen and if I’m pressed for time, I’ll wait as long as I can or apply my sunscreen on my way out the door. This gives my skin a little time to drink up all the goodness I’ve already applied.
STEP FIFTEEN
We made it to the most important step in any skincare routine: sunscreen! And here’s the thing, I am absolutely the chief of the sunscreen police and I’m frankly insufferable to be around as soon as the UV index starts to creep above two. But the truth is this: you can use all the fancy serums and LED tools in the world but if you’re not applying adequate sun protection, you might as well be lighting your money on fire. I’m a firm believer in wearing sunscreen every single day, no matter the weather or if I plan to leave the house or not (I’m really more of an indoor cat). Short periods of sun exposure — like walking to and from the subway, running an errand, etc. — add up over time, and actives in our skincare routine can make our skin more sensitive to the sun. And while I tried to stop myself, I really can’t help but remind you that you need to apply the proper amount of sunscreen to achieve the protection listed on the label. In other words, a little bit of sunscreen isn’t going to protect your skin.
I generally use my favorite sunscreen every morning because it’s truly so much better for me than anything else I’ve tried. It’s hard to get but it is possible to get it in the U.S. without paying $30 for shipping (and that’s a hot tip I don’t usually give out — you just have to be crafty!). It’s recommended that you use approximately two milligrams of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin, and for most people that’s about 1/4 teaspoon (math). However, I am the chief of the sunscreen police so I apply at least 1/3 of a teaspoon every morning. I usually apply half the amount of product first and then immediately follow with the rest, as this makes it easier to blend. If I’m planning to put on makeup after I do my skincare, I wait at least ten or fifteen minutes.
My highest recommendation is to forget about the three finger method and use a measuring spoon to actually measure out the correct amount of product you need to apply. Trust me. And please let me know when you do it, you’ll make my day.
My other favorites are all chemical sunscreens with SPF 50+ protection, including this one, this one, this one, this one and this one. If you prefer a mineral sunscreen, this one and this one (save w/ myskinterest) are lovely but I just prefer a chemical sunscreen. No matter what sunscreen you use or how you apply it, the most important thing is that you do it every single day.
Anyways, that’s pretty much it! I think it took me fifteen times longer to write this post than it does to actually do my skincare routine each morning. But it was worth it for the one person who read the whole thing (and for those wondering, my mom likely stopped at the intro)!! 🤍
We Did It, Joe!
If you made it to the end, I salute you. I also ask that you please like this post and leave a comment, your engagement really does help me with the Substack of it all (which I’m still trying to navigate). But more importantly, it lets me know that people actually read what I write and I’m not just talking to myself (she says hesitantly).Now off to your next great read!
Tell me, what did I leave out? What other questions do you have? Are you interested in a post on why I love each product? Would you want to read about my Sephora sale odyssey? Do you have a favorite step in your morning skincare routine? Are you confused what a glob means? What did you have for breakfast? Have you fallen in love with any products you bought off my recommendation? Tell me everything.
Until next time, follow along on Instagram and browse all of my favorite things. myMusings is a labor of love but it is labor. Don’t forget to click the 🤍 before you go! Thank you for being here. Talk soon.
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Thankful to have added some of your recs to my minimal am routine. Cleanse, prequel vit c, mother hero, dieux moisturizer. Thinking of adding dieux niac. serum. Evening is cleanse, medic8 peptide serum, Ubeauty resurfacing and their eye cream and dieux again. Pretty happy with the results but haven’t found the magic eye serum/cream yet for my mature eyes (with bags) We’d love to know your evening routine 😊. Do you still use some of the Ubeauty products? But truly thank you for sharing!
I loved reading this as I am definitely one of those people who sees your stories on Instagram and think, "how? why?" and "Should I be doing this too?". We have opposite skin types - I'm oily and aging, which is a fun combo. For not doing any interventions (no botox, not even facials), my skin looks pretty good and I want to keep it that way. After an entire adulthood of using plain old Oil of Olay, I started getting serious about skincare in the last 5 years (I'm 52). If you're offering up a post on why these products and not others, and why you love these products, then I'm in!